The last time I was writing out my experiences and thoughts, I was back in Milford, Utah. Since then I have crossed into Nevada and am currently enjoying the lovely town of Ely. Nestled between two large mountain ranges, the hub of 4,000 inhabitants sits at the bottom of the basin, collecting the water that trickles down from the walls of earth surrounding it.
I have entered The Great Basin.
Nevada's geography is fairly cut and dry: every 20-30 miles there is a climb up a mountain and a descent into a basin, then a climb up another mountain and another descent into another basin. The Great Basin can be simply viewed as a giant bowl. None of the water here leads to any sea or ocean, it stays here forever, accumulating in lakes, rivers, and ponds. Glaciers and shifting plates have shaped this intriguing region over millions of years. The towns and populaces are few and far between. The route taken through the area is known simply as "The Loneliest Road in America"; Highway 50. There is more than enough time to ponder, think, and appreciate. Nevada is nothing like I'd expected. The dry, dreary, lonesome travels that I thought would have attacked my senses have not done so. Instead, I am thoroughly enjoying the solace and peace that the Earth has seemed to create here (or that humans have allowed to be).
Bike the US for MS: my knights in shining armor. I couldn't imagine doing some of the desolate ride without them. Every 20 miles at every summit, I can see the sun gleaming off of the white painted van. The water, company, and refreshment beckoning me up the last 60 feet.
20 miles into the first day from Milford, I encountered Duncan on the side of the road. He had stumbled upon the lost mining town of Frisco, a once sprawling community of 4,000 inhabitants. We had to check it out. A 5 mile hike and mountainous climb took us into 500 ft. mines, deep caverns, and old dilapidated houses from over a century ago. Over $60,000,000 worth of minerals were extracted from here... What?! The sign blatantly read, "After the mine collapsed, the residents slowly moved out". How the fuck does a town making that much money with that many people, simply dissipate? Frisco was one of the highlights of the trip.
Duncan and I fell far behind after this detour. The MS drivers were understandably slightly flustered by our adventurous spirits but we bustled our way back up to pace. Michael would join us at the next stop. Together, we would bike the final 70 miles to Baker, encounter a hail storm, swim in a lake, and enter Nevada in the process.
At Baker, we were shuttled by the MS vans to to the crescent of The Great Basin National Park; an astounding place. We were up 11,000 feet from the 6,000 at Baker. The view looked like something you would see glancing out of a plane window. Again, I spent the evening bonding with my biking family. These guys have really welcomed Michael and I with open arms.
I rapidly descended down back into Baker the next day (20 miles) in about 40 minutes stopping every now and again to look at the unbelievable views. It was 60 something more miles to Ely. I joined up with Michael at the first summit and we collectively encouraged each other toward Ely. I'm really taking a liking to the guy, we're very much alike.
I spent my "last evening" with the Bike the US team at the campground. It never ceases to warm my soul at how accomodating and kind these guys have been. As with all families though, we need to leave the nest. This morning, I said goodbye to the group. Michael and I were the last ones left. We had a really nice breakfast at McDonalds filled with smiles and laughs.
Michael will be leaving town late in the afternoon and stealth camping for the first time between here and Eureka (80 miles). Tomorrow I will get the full effect of "America's Loneliest Road" and I'll need to really stock up on water again. For now, I'm enjoying my rest day in Ely, NV.
Ominous.
Frisco, UT
A real tree! The only one on the desolate ride toward Baker. Also, wildfires are breaking out frequently around here. I've seen 7 or 8 since entering Nevada, granted some are controlled.
Sensual Nevada.
On top of Great Basin National Park. Watched an awesome blu-ray movie later at the Visitor's Center, which got me hyped up before embarking into the long ride.
Descending a mountain on the way toward another; on the way to Ely.
Tag-team effort toward Ely; the two self-supporters (with help from the MS crew).
P.s. This should actually be the main body of this post but to everyone who sent me a letter; you hold a special place in my heart. Thank you soooo much.
Love.
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